The ethnic food festival of the Kargil district has emerged as a major event, broadening its scope for the preservation and promotion of local culture and tradition while creating livelihoods for the locals. I developed this observation when I had the opportunity to attend the Mamani Food Festival in the border village of Hunderman.

The program, organized by the Himalayan Cultural Heritage Foundation (HCHF), aimed to promote the village for tourism. It featured a speech by its founder, Dr. Sonam Wangchuk, emphasizing “own food, own clothes, and own language” (Rang Zaan, Rang Skaath, Rang Gos). The conduct of the event in Hunderman made it even more special.

Hunderman village is situated in Ladakh’s Kargil district, approximately 10 km uphill from Kargil town. This village, located near the Line of Control (LOC), was previously known as Hunder Brok and was under Pakistan’s occupation until 1971. After its integration into India by Major Man Singh, its name was changed to Hunderman.

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Before visiting Hunderman, I knew the Mamani Festival as a traditional food festival where people gathered, enjoyed a variety of dishes, prayed for deceased relatives, and then returned home. However, when I saw the ethnic food at Hunderman, I was truly surprised, as I had never seen such unique dishes before.

The Mamani Ethnic Food Festival in Hunderman is more than just a food festival; it serves as an opportunity to showcase the region’s rich culture to visitors from outside the area. The festival highlighted not only traditional food but also local games played with sheep bones and dung. Additionally, medicinal plants were displayed, underscoring the region’s cultural and natural heritage.

The organizers also emphasized the need to preserve the local language by ensuring its maximum use in daily life. At this festival, I realized that the native language has the power to convey messages with emotions, while a second language delivers only the message, as people do not fully comprehend it.

The preservation of old homes to showcase the community’s struggles and attract tourists encourages people to learn about the history and resilience of the village during the Kargil War, adding another compelling reason to visit.

All the stall owners at the festival were women, each showcasing the food one by one and explaining its nutritional value. In a small rural village, the fact that the festival is presented by women is a powerful symbol of women’s empowerment and reflects the age-old tradition in Purgi of giving importance to women.

At the festival, there were two foreigners, one from Germany and another from France. What stood out was that one of them spoke the local language, and everyone warmly welcomed them. Their attire matched that of the locals, and they were asked to judge the food and provide ratings by the organizers, as they could judge the stalls without bias. This helped avoid any objections to the food ratings.

Amid this beautiful celebration, a significant concern loomed among the locals. They faced several basic challenges, such as a severe water shortage for agriculture and irrigation over the last five years. This drought-like situation prevented locals from irrigating their land.

Before this water crisis, the area thrived with good crops like barley, potatoes, and turnips. Farmers were able to sustain their livelihoods and meet community demands. However, the prolonged water scarcity has severely impacted crop production, leading to economic hardships. Many farmers have abandoned their fields or sought alternative sources of income. The once-thriving agricultural land now lies barren, underscoring the urgent need for effective water management and sustainable farming practices.

There was also an area with a significant number of baby juniper plants (Shukpa), which grow remarkably slowly—taking over 40 years to mature, spanning roughly two human generations. This slow growth highlights the importance of preserving and nurturing these plants, as their development requires patience and a long-term commitment to environmental conservation.

When India gained control of the village, freeing it from Pakistan’s occupation, the government initially provided rations to the villagers. However, over the decades, the quantity of food rations gradually decreased. Ironically, when the villagers had good crops and were less reliant on external support, the government provided rations. Yet, during times of genuine need, when crops failed due to water scarcity and other challenges, the rations were curtailed.

Additionally, as told by the locals, both the district administration and the Union Territory government have failed to provide adequate facilities or support to the villagers, leaving them in neglect and hardship.

In Hunderman, one can easily see the nearby village now under Pakistan’s control. The locals often talk about the shrine of Ayatollah Sheikh Ali Brolmo, located on the Pakistani side. Sheikh Ali was a revered scholar whose memory is deeply cherished. Before 1947, he visited the village every three or four months to preach Islamic knowledge. Known for his sharp intellect and wisdom, Sheikh Ali traveled extensively, often on horseback or yak.

One villager shared a story about Sheikh Ali’s visits. Due to his tall and robust frame, he couldn’t fit through the small traditional doorways of their homes. Instead, he taught in an open-roof space, where villagers gathered to listen to his profound knowledge of Islam. His legacy continues to inspire the community.

The villagers are keen to visit the shrine of Sheikh Ali and reconnect with their relatives across the border. The partition may have divided the land, but it failed to sever the deep emotional bonds between the people. Despite the boundary, their love for family and relatives remains strong.

Now, however, they live in uncertainty, unable to know whether their loved ones are alive or how they are doing. The pain of separation weighs heavily, especially on the elderly, many of whom have immediate family or close relatives on the others Side.

Both governments must prioritize the humanitarian needs of the people and find ways to facilitate their reunions, said the locals of the community, who are eager to meet their loved ones. Creating channels for communication, allowing cross-border visits, and respecting these shared ties can ease the emotional burden. For the villagers, reconnecting with their heritage and families would restore a part of their identity and history.